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Roland Mouret

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FRESH AND EASY

Paris: After a five-year legal battle, Roland Mouret was finally able to drop the “RM” from his label, and so for him, spring was all about reinvention. The mind-bending origami construction and a few of his signature body-hugging sheaths remained, but the relaxed attitude that appeared last season continued full steam into spring. Loose, unbuttoned blouses, color-blocked camis and pajama-like capris appeared in parachute-light silks and a refreshing palette of neutrals, sea foam and goldenrod yellow. While cocktail-ready dresses once dominated Mouret’s collections, thoughtful day and career looks presented a strong new direction. Prim twin sets looked chic with subtle draped details and when worn with pegged pants and wax-coated capris. Jackets were another standout, appearing in supple double-layered wools and with kimono sleeves, high-low hems and clean cargo pockets. Even after-five dresses seemed to loosen up a bit with heat-set crinkles and embossed patterns breaking up the usually pristine silks. Mouret’s mind seemed finally at ease, and it reflected in this easy-to-wear, easy-to-admire collection.

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