Roland Mouret


Paris: Fall seems to have caught the Mouret woman on her day off, eschewing her sexy cocktail attire in favor of knit shirtdresses, cardigans and hoodies. Mouret has a knack for creating complex, curvy forms out of just a few creatively-placed tucks and darts, and this time the origami folds took on a softer, more fluid elegance in silk and cotton jerseys. Although the results look effortless, the clothes are the result of a designer who often agonizes over new ways to mold fabric to the body and incorporate transformable features, such as a garment that can be worn as a top or a skirt. This season, his mind-bending tricks manifested in seamless hoods on dresses and convertible separates and outerwear. The opening number — a boucle skirt, blouse and cape ensemble — was in actuality composed in one long piece (similar to the jumpsuits seen at Balenciaga the day before), the only giveaway being pagoda-like peplums that emanated from the waist. This season’s long and languid column dresses in whispery color washes continued the thread of easy sophistication for day or after five. In a fall season marked by a newfound relaxation and increasingly wearable clothes, Mouret’s own change could not have come at a better time.
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