May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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DREAM IN COLOR
New York: The artist Vincent Van Gogh and retro prom fashions were the most obvious influences behind Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s designs for Rodarte this season, but the sisters’ vision actually first stemmed from Disney’s 1959 animated version of Sleeping Beauty. Inspired by the film’s colors, the designers sought similar palettes elsewhere and found them in Van Gogh’s dreamy landscapes. The painter’s flowers and celestial scenes appeared on full-skirted 50s frocks and ethereal, 70s-inspired tiered dresses, and embellishments echoed the aforementioned motifs. So far, critics have been skeptical about the duo’s nostalgic silhouettes and uninhibited hues this season, but the show’s offerings couldn’t have been more well-suited for its celebrity front row occupants. Young “it”-girls like Tavi Gevinson, Dakota and Elle Fanning, Saoirse Ronan, Rooney Mara, and Taylor Swift will surely be drawn to the whimsical-femme assortment of S/S 12. –Whitney Kessler
Silhouette: Fit-and-flare / Trapeze
Color: Golden yellows / Turquoise / Mint / Bronze / Sunburnt browns / Sky blues / Black / Leafy greens / Lilac / Royal purple
Key Items: Peplum top / Pedal Pusher / Tiered dress / Matched set / Color-blocked sweater / Full-skirted frock
Materials: Silk satins, crepes and chiffons / Metallic Jacquards / Leather / Tulle / Cabled sweater knits
Print + Pattern: Painterly floral, landscape and celestial prints / Stripes / Scroll, starburst and diamond motifs
Details + Trim: Off-the-shoulder necklines / Draping, ruching, folding and gathering / Cap-sleeves / Cutouts / Pintucks / Wrap details / Contrast linings and trims / Shawl collars / Drop-waists / Embroidery / Handkerchief hems / Ruffles / Beading / Asymmetry / Raw edges / Sequins / Peplums / Sheer overlays / Appliqués
Accessories + Footwear: Gathered leather waist belts / Architectural metallic platforms
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