5 hours ago | By Alice Gividen
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New York: On a drive through the desert from El Paso to Marfa, Texas, the Mulleavy sisters were inspired by the haunting landscapes and began thinking about Ciudad Juárez, just across the Mexican border. The sisters imagined the maquiladora workers waking up in the wee hours, and then they thought about sleepwalking. Their stream-of-consciousness thought process helps to decode their construction techniques – a piece here leads to another piece there, until it all comes together to form something a little disjointed but stunningly beautiful. There was an underlying stillness and peace that permeated the collection, in contrast to the dark, aggressive and frenetic mood of their Spring show. Washed out floral printed chiffon, lace, nubby bouclé and the occasion pop of printed fabric were some of the garments’ components this season – with Rodarte, it’s never just one thing. Of course, knitting and crochet played a major role. Granny-ish doilies in fading earth tones and hits of rich burgundy were used for tops and bodice portions of dresses, and tea-stained strands of yarn became swinging fringe for skirts. The show ended with a procession of ethereal white dresses in the label’s signature mixed materials. Their delicacy and lightness were profoundly moving, a statement of the sisters’ tremendous gift.
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