WGSN Head of Catwalks Lizzy Bowring shares her review of the collection and highlights the key items
Alessandro Dell’Acqua is a fountain of creativity. For Pre-Fall he presented a superb lineup for No 21 and showed nothing less for Rochas.
Paris: To quote the show notes, “ the Pre-Fall collection introduces a relaxed, unforced attitude”. This approach was cleverly crafted in a blend of light, feminine and tailored pieces with a desire for practicality and relaxation pervading throughout. Dell’Acqua also looked to Julie Christie in the 70s film Shampoo, reconciling both past and present with a fresh outlook. He achieved this by the unique blends of heavy and light luxurious materials, impeccably tailored yet styled with an understated casual attitude.
There was a touch of society eccentricity and wealth evident in the quirky styling and in the accessories – embroideries, rhinestones, and fil rouge decorated the toes and heels of satin slippers while Mary Janes were styled with ribbons, adding a stately almost aristocratic touch. However, it was the coats that were at the heart of the collection, created in rich, sumptuous and cozy alpaca, and luxurious double-faced cashmere – a collection put together with a nonchalant attitude, a keen feminine sensibility and masculine attitude – perfect for the new season. – Lizzy Bowring
Theme: Masculinity with a touch of sweetness
Key Items: Fur jacket, Tailored multi pocket shirt, Asymmetric pencil skirt with side split, Double-breasted coat, Cropped masculine trousers, Greatcoat, Slipdress, Voluminous full length dress, Shearling jackets
Colour: Pale blue, Biscuit, Black, Grey, Camel, Wine, Mint green, Mocha, Forest green, Pink
Print and Pattern: Animal skin, Single Chrysanthemums, Orchids, Oversized yarn dye, Python, Tweeds, Japanese wool, Fil coupe, Reverse sheepskin, Boucle
Trims and Materials: Lace, Silk chiffon, Silk de chine, Sequins, Hand-woven tweed, Crepe de chine, Devore velvet
Footwear and Accessories: Pointed toe kitten heels, Socks, Fur stole, Shoulder bag, Knee high boots, Snakaeskin boots, Chunky heeled Mary Janes, Satin slippers
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