Paris: Marco Zanini’s 1940s ingénue from spring has fast-forwarded to the 1960s for fall and has fled west from Indochina in search of fun. The muse for the designer was a composite of the two heroines in the 1969 film Cactus Flower (played by Goldie Hawn and Ingrid Bergmen) and the collection again skated the line between adolescence and maturity, with plenty of charm to spare. No Sixties flashback would be complete without bell-bottoms, and Rochas’s versions were subtly flared, cropped low on the ankle and colored in cosmetic tones and candy-coated brights. Scooter dresses abounded in the same rainbow array, cut from firm woolens that retained their clean shapes, and worn over silk blouses with long, pointy collars. Roundly-sculpted coats reminiscent of Bonnie Cashin and delightful cheetah printed outerwear maintained the buoyant mood, as did party-ready brocade frocks, Lurex-infused rompers and flouncy lacquered dresses. Now in his third season for Rochas, Zanini has hit his stride, successfully melding his youthful energy with the Parisian sophistication that has come to define the storied house.
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