May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Paris: Marco Zanini’s latest for Rochas expanded on some of the silhouettes from his Spring collection, maintaining the big, voluminous skirts but adapting them for day with a retro, elite-housewife interpretation. Where last season was light and somewhat sporty, as if designed for a glamorous game of tennis, Fall was covered up and proper with ribbed knit cardigans and crewnecks featuring fur cuffs, decorous bouclé midi-pencil skirts and enormous, round overcoats. In preppy, plummy browns, camel and grey mixed with chartreuse and pastels, the effect was affluent, solemn and absent the slightest hint of body-conscious allure. Instead, Zanini relied on silky pajama sets worn beneath menswear coats and the pleated folds of a-line skirts in heavy velvet or floral duchesse satin for a suggestion of F/W 13’s secret inner life of the privileged class.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Slender / A-line / Oversized & round / Voluminous
Color: Baby blue / Chartreuse / Pale blush pink / Peach / Nude / Pale grey / Camel / Military olive / White / Tangerine / Plummy chocolate / Minty ice blue / Black
Key Items: Ribbed cardigans / Straight bouclé midi skirts / Oversized housecoats / Full a-line skirts / Relaxed menswear blazers / Straight or tapered trousers cropped at the ankle / Big cocoon sheath dresses / Silk pajama sets
Materials: Space dye knits / Bouclé / Wool / Duchesse satin / Silk / Velvet / Cashmere blends / Faux fur
Print + Pattern: Retro traditional florals / Prince of Wales checks
Details + Trim: Patch pockets / Fur cuffs / Pleating / Open collars / Three-quarter sleeves / Pearl buttons
Accessories + Footwear: Snakeskin pumps / Retro crystal earrings / Rolled clutch bags / Satin Mary Janes / Flat loafers with bows / Crystal collar necklaces / Leather and wool gloves
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