May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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New York: Marco Zanini always includes an element of youthfulness in his accomplished collections for Rochas. Instead of the innocence that has characterized his work in seasons past, there was a hint of teenage rebellion in his Pre-Fall offering. The knit beanies, slouchy socks and boxy sweaters connected the looks to 1990s grunge and all the insouciance that went along with it. But there was no frayed denim or cotton jersey to be found here. Ultra-luxe brocades and gold foils appeared instead, elevating the layered looks. Texture emerged as a key element this time around; in addition to the brocades and jacquards, there was cloqué, faux astrakhan, chenille, and mohair, making for garments that begged to be touched. Though each piece was expertly tailored and precise, the long-layered silhouettes and roomy fits gave it all a casual feel. This season’s Rochas girl wears her luxury with nonchalance rather than reverence, making it all the more intoxicating.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Long layers / Oversized / Boxy on top / Flared / Cocoon / Dropped waist / Tent
Color: Black / Metallic gold / Taupe / Raisin brown / Navy / Pastel pink / Olive / Butternut / Mauve
Key Items: Cropped flared pants / Varsity sweaters / Elongated brocade pencil skirts / Oversized coats
Materials: Gold foil jacquard / Brocade / Cloqué / Faux astrakhan / Chenille / Mohair / Brushed bouclé / Heavy wool twill / Spongy suiltings / Marled yarns / Velvet / Duchesse satin
Print + Pattern: Large-scale abstract florals / Small vintage florals / Collegiate stripes / Brand name graphics
Details + Trim: Pleats / Flared legs / Notched plackets / V necklines
Accessories + Footwear: Chenille or wool beanies / Knit and leather gloves / Boxy ladylike bags / Pony skin totes / Thin clutches / Miniature top-handle bags / Chunky platform ankle boots / Platform loafers
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