May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Milan: Roberto Cavalli has always been associated with a certain sense of excess, and this season the designer pulled out all the stops, sending forth a collection featuring eye-catching prints, luxe materials, copious embellishments, and opulent accessories. The looks were mostly black and white, connecting the show to the film noir theme that has become so prevalent for fall. Instead of his signature animal and reptile prints, Cavalli opted for blurry, manipulated florals, which created a darkly romantic mood. Shaggy furs with colorful dyed patches and velvet jacquards added both textural interest and luxuriousness. There was a whiff of disco decadence in the chainmail pieces and metal chain trim on display; it was more Gianni Versace than Paco Rabanne. Flared pant legs also spoke of the Studio 54 era. Necklines were uncharacteristically high, but skirts and dresses were extra-short, making long, bare legs the focus. The glamour and seductiveness made it a Cavalli show, but the prints and tones made it fresh. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Flared / Mini / Top-heavy / A-line / Dropped waist
Color: Black / White / Silver / Gold / Red / Navy / Olive / Indigo / Mulberry / Rust
Key Items: Shaggy fur coats / Printed flared pants / Chainmail mini-dresses / Dropped-ruffle miniskirts / Tuxedo jackets
Materials: Printed silks / Shaggy dyed furs / Chiffon / Chainmail / Velvet / Medium-gauge wool yarns / Matte wool suitings / Jacquard / Satin
Print + Pattern: Blurry florals / Abstract digital prints / Baroque florals / Medallions
Details + Trim: Chain trim / Jewel embellishments / Ruching / Fine pleats / Fur embellishements / Jewel necklines / Dropped flounces / Satin lapels / Contrast lapels and sleeves
Accessories + Footwear: Enamel flower earrings / Enamel flower and butterfly chokers / Flower cuffs / Chain-strap bags / Embellished minaudieres / Leather gloves / Pointy-toe pumps
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