Robert Geller

New York: Robert Geller is always one of the most highly-anticipated shows in New York— mainly for the dark and romantic contrasts to much of the week’s colorful looks and preppy palettes. For S/S 12, the man who often points to his German birthplace, LA upbringing and New York home as influences continued the transcontinental point of view that has made his collection one of the most influential of the past few seasons. Citing Bauhaus as the main inspiration, a movement which sought to create a “total” work of art in which all arts and aesthetics would eventually be brought together, made complete sense once the looks on the runway unfolded. Geller took many traditional male archetypes (servicemen, bankers, manual laborers, wandering men and athletes), and placed a kind of idealistic emphasis on their daily uniforms. To prove the point, there were double-breasted blazers, flight pants, bomber jackets, moto pants, sweatshirts, work jackets and plenty of mesh. In addition to the time-honored classics, the designer played with proportions, telling press after the show, “This season I thought a lot about proportions, and how to play with them. If a guy wears a slim pant, I’d think about juxtaposing it with a rounded sleeve or shoulder. In this collection, I emphasized how men really need to loosen up, but still be masculine, with a certain coolness.”  —Michael Fisher

Silhouette: Contrasting proportions and unexpected tailoring

Color: Black / Grey / Indigo blue / Tobacco brown / Sweatshirt grey

Key Items: Double-breasted blazer / Mesh knits / Cropped trench coat / Bomber jackets / Leather moto pants / Pieced parka / Oversized sweatshirt / Chambray shirts / Work jackets / Fine gauge cardigans

Materials: Jersey / Calfskin leather / Cotton blends / Linen / Mesh

Details + Trim: Unexpected proportions / Long layers / Pieced construction / Utility pockets / Boat neck silhouette / Rolled sleeves / Raw edges

Accessories + Footwear: Beaded necklaces by Scosha / Gauzy scarves / Paper derby hats & fedoras / Chunky sole Oxfords by Common Projects

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