Robert Geller

New York: Robert Geller presented a F/W 12 collection full of updates on “what made English style so great.” With a nod to post-Punk street style of the last few decades that fuse elements of city and country living, the designer continues to be a master at masculine layering with a subtle bit of dandy thrown in for good measure. He cited among his many influences a moody rainy day, the music of the 80s band The Sound, and the industrial aesthetic of Northern England. Gritty neutrals that mimic the streets made up most of the palette, but it was the warm Earthen tones like “burn orange” and “dusty marigold” that rounded out looks that included bulky knits, military-inspired anoraks and a wide variety of trousers – fitted, roomy, and cropped. With the clothes oozing a relaxed elegance that only a global citizen like Geller could (the German-born designer has lived in Europe, LA and New York), the proportion play prevails in being one of the most directional cues of the week, including elongated shirts, cropped vests and voluminous trousers.  —Michael Fisher

Silhouette: Relaxed elegance

Color: Grey / Charcoal / Bone / Olive / “Burn orange” / “Dusty marigold” / Navy / Wine / Black

Key Items: Color-blocked overcoats / Short-sleeve cable knit sweaters / Ombre jackets / Tailored vests / Elongated woven shirts / Cropped bombers / Relaxed woolen pants / Fine gauge turtlenecks / Waxed capes / Sleeveless baseball jackets / Toggle coat / Mohair sweaters / Double-breasted blazer

Materials: Waxed-canvas / Leather / Washed tweed / Wool-mohair / Flannel

Details + Trim: Color-blocking / Flat-quilted surfaces / Knit cuffs on cropped pants / Exposed zippers / Self-belts / Small point collars / Pieced construction

Accessories + Footwear: Common Projects lace-up Oxfords / slouchy socks by Etiquette Clothiers / Felt bowler hats / Wide-brimmed hats / Berets / Leather gloves / Bulky wool scarves / Jewelry by Alyssa Norton


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