Sep 21, 2018 | By Alice Gividen
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MEDITATION ON THE SQUARE
For his spring collection, Roland Mouret explored the possibilities of a square piece of fabric. In his skilled hands, the simple shape evolved into soft architectural forms that enveloped the body and fell away in fluid cascades and gentle folds. The exercise also contributed a new sense of ease to the designer’s trademark body-hugging, controlled draping. Skirts and pants were shaped with tucks along the center front, turning the volume at the hips into pockets for an ingenious harem style. Excess fabric on jackets folded back into soft lapels or were shaped into deco ziggurats, handkerchief squares rotated to from a V-shaped flounce on camisoles or were contrasting insets on sheath dresses, and a draped rectangle created an asymmetric bib for this season’s chic overalls. Moroccan-inspired saffron, persimmon, and mosaic blue spiced up Mouret’s usual palette of black, navy, and grey. A North Africa influence was also felt in the rich textured fabrics, fringy pile materials, and tarnished gold beads that were configured into openwork neck bibs. Body-conscious styles came in the form of porcelain pink spandex slips, bike shorts, and camisoles shaped with knife-sharp darts. The various themes never overwhelmed or limited the collection, and Mouret’s refined sense of elegance shined through better than ever.
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