Jan 10, 2017 | By Lourdes Linares
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Last week Rio de Janeiro kicked off the Fall/Winter 14 fashion calendar with its growing roster of emerging designers. With its growing portfolio of emerging talent, the city has become the key Brazilian and Latin American fashion weeks to grab international attention from the fashion media. Known for its denim heavy collections, Stylesight highlights the key looks from this up and coming city.
As one of Rio’s leading design houses, TNG consistently provides directional collections season on season. F/W 14 proved no different with the designer looking to denim once again to explore a wide range of visual finishes. From extreme bleach washes to thick resin treatments and laser laundries, statement surface were the order of the day. A range of bold prints in eye catching shades updated the perennial skinny, while raw denim shirts were injected with a touch of evening glamour with lace inserts at the sleeve.
Brazilian designer Iodice took a clean coordinated approach to denim this season updating classic denim silhouettes with simple prints or quilted inserts. Taking cue from the current trend in womenswear, matched sets were a key element to the collection with truckers pairs with matching pants or skirts. Denim jackets were given a feminine flare with elongated proportions, slouchy sleeves and collarless necklines, while other items were updated with oversized buttons or zipper details in burnished brass for a polished finish. Burnout treatments on shirt bodies created a new take on the fabric blocking trend.
Signalling a return to opulence and decadent eveningwear Sacada looked to rich denims infused with highly decorative surfaces for F/W 14. Clean and tailored silhouettes like sleeveless blazers, popover tees and formal outerwear options were constructed from raw denims in polished indigo tones. Surfaces featured woven jacquard motifs as well as over-flocking and foil printing in lavish Rococo patterns adding an exuberant finish.
Medieval knights were noted as a main inspiration for Alexandre Herchcovitch’s fall collection with the designer presenting an urban sportswear take on the Middle Ages. Ergonomic seaming on biker pants and coveralls suggested armoured looks, while digital chainmail prints took a more literally approach. A range of unisex looks were seen throughout with longline shapes like denim jackets with pleated skirting. Glossy denims, resin coatings and graphic color block techniques lent a more contemporary feel to the collection.
For F/W 14 Ellus 2nd floor presented a uniquely unisex collection that had some interesting, stand out denim pieces. The designers looked to photo-real and digital prints to give denim assortments a statement appeal, applying the prints to jackets and bottoms for a coordinated look. Young and edgy items like cut off overall vest, denim tees and and popover cagoule tops were highlighted with workwear detailing to create an urban streetwear feel. Raw, frayed edges were juxtaposed with the upscaled all over leaf prints for high-low contrast.
Coca Cola Clothing
Coca Cola Clothing returned for F/W 14 with a sportswear, urban-inspired collection. The designers presented some refreshing fabric and color blocking ideas mixed in with sleek, ergonomic silhouettes. Gold metallic PU leathers were jigsawed against stark white PU leather, while monochromatic lettering in pixelated fonts provided an retro analogue attitude. The indigo color block trend evolved with clean geometric panels infused with gradient and shadow wash techniques in sporty silhouettes like bomber jackets and boxy shorts that created a space age feel.
Rio based brand Oh boy took an upsized and `80s approach for F/W 14. The silhouettes were slouchy, soft and oversized but presented in light wash denims for a feminine attitude. High waisted, carrot shaped pants were a key silhouette for the collection with paper-bag waists adding a playful and youthful touch. These looks were styled with wide sleeved crop tops with revealing midriff hemlines for an authentic retro look. Bugle beadwork embellishments highlighted jacket shoulders and sleeves, while tonal flocking and intricate embossed leather designs added a luxe touch.
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