Jun 11, 2018 | By Nick Paget
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ON THE LIGHTER SIDE
Paris: Though Rick Owens’ collections are always darkly desirable, they have had a feeling of stagnation over the past few seasons. One worried that that was as far as Owens could go, but the current show blows those doubts away. The designer had something new to say and communicated it effectively with what might be his best collection yet. Working within his signature neutrals, the current palette felt softer, yet richer, than ever before. His moody black was still there, but plush materials like fur and angora made it feel less severe. Monastic fur hoods and shorts with a dramatically dropped crotch were ideas he had presented before, but the finale of outstanding padded pieces that referenced Charles James’ angel-wing jackets were new and exciting, proving the designer’s imagination goes far beyond the goth-chic box in which he had been placed.
Color: Black / Ivory / Taupe / Pinkish tan / Dove grey / Reddish brown
Key Items: Long skirt / Dropped-rise shorts / Padded jackets / Long angora sweaters
Materials: Angora / Satin / Taffeta / Firm woolens / Nylon / Fur / Leather
Details + Trim: Piecing / Asymmetrical closures / Padding / Dropped rises / Hoods
Accessories + Footwear: Fur hoods / Gauntlet gloves / Tall pieced boots with accordion details at ankles
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