Mar 27, 2019 | By Volker Ketteniss
MEN IN TRANSITION
Paris: Ricks Owens continues to unleash his decisive dark vision on the Paris runways. The designer soldiers on each season in his strong and singular androgynous vision and gender explorations. His acutely cut, futurist uniforms with a soft-tough aesthetic successfully migrate from season to season with subtle shifts in silhouette, winning him an international following. This time, black and white geometric stripes and diagonals had a subtle tribal effect in a season full of in-your-face global motifs. Turning his focus to a somewhat tailored silhouette for S/S 12, Owens explored his version of a “four-piece suit” — cutaway jacket, woven top, skirt and tunic. While the floor-sweeping shapes pushed the boundries of menswear, there were slim pants, rugged boots and strong-shouldered blazers that insured that the collection did not drown in a fantasy of gender-bending attire.
Color: Black / White / Tan / Charcoal
Key Items: Cutaway jacket / Skirts / Elongated woven tunic / Skinny pants / Sleeveless woven tees / Asymmetric jackets / Tank dresses
Materials: Raw silk / Shantung / Cotton / Linen
Details + Trim: Multiple layers / Color-blocking / Asymmetric closures for jackets / Cutaway silhouettes / Contrast piping
Accessories + Footwear: Plastic shield sunglasses / “Armored” boots
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