Login

Rick Owens: Refined Obsessions

 

Paris: An M-65 jacket was the seed of Rick Owens Spring 2016 collection. Though rather than making a political statement, Owens focused on the ambiguity of the item: “ It represents heroism, but also questions at the same time.” he commented. The jacket was issued in the Vietnam War by US military and not only became a staple of Military dress, but an anti-war statement in itself. And so Owens obsessed over the piece, dissecting jackets and re-building them. Cut from tooled or patent leather and fraying canvas, Owens versions almost had a fragility to them, the designer commenting he intended on “establishing a grey, soft cocoon ” at the same time as “adding frivolity and sparkle”. Some took on longer lengths, falling at the knee whilst others  were tailored and prim. The silhouettes then became more elaborate, with the designer drawing inspiration from artists Steven Parrino’s slashed canvases. Arty and experimental, their surfaces defined the designers vision of shiny, crackled sheens and lacquer like finishes whilst a fleshy, translucent leather cast an alien like glaze over the models bodies. A refined and explorative collection from Owens – Anna Ross

Theme: Refined Obsessions

Key Items: Re-worked M65 Jacket, Jersey tank , Tapered shorts, Elongated bomber

Colour:  Stone, Black, Yellow gold, Oyster, Flesh, Mint, Burnt orange

Materials and Trims: Leather, Canvas, Cotton, Translucent leather, Jersey

Print and Pattern: Tooled leather

Accessories and Footwear:  Combat Boots, Cyclops hair pieces

View More Images in CATWALKS GALLERY

Know what’s next. Become a WGSN member today to benefit from our daily trend intelligence, retail analytics, consumer insights and bespoke consultancy services.

WGSN Insider Bulletin

Get a demo to experience WGSN for yourself.

Related Stories

How BoohooMAN became a serious contender in the menswear market

3 Street Style Trends from #MFW

How brands are exploring modern masculinity in their campaigns

Share
Tweet
+1
Share
Pin