May 29, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Paris: An M-65 jacket was the seed of Rick Owens Spring 2016 collection. Though rather than making a political statement, Owens focused on the ambiguity of the item: “ It represents heroism, but also questions at the same time.” he commented. The jacket was issued in the Vietnam War by US military and not only became a staple of Military dress, but an anti-war statement in itself. And so Owens obsessed over the piece, dissecting jackets and re-building them. Cut from tooled or patent leather and fraying canvas, Owens versions almost had a fragility to them, the designer commenting he intended on “establishing a grey, soft cocoon ” at the same time as “adding frivolity and sparkle”. Some took on longer lengths, falling at the knee whilst others were tailored and prim. The silhouettes then became more elaborate, with the designer drawing inspiration from artists Steven Parrino’s slashed canvases. Arty and experimental, their surfaces defined the designers vision of shiny, crackled sheens and lacquer like finishes whilst a fleshy, translucent leather cast an alien like glaze over the models bodies. A refined and explorative collection from Owens – Anna Ross
Theme: Refined Obsessions
Key Items: Re-worked M65 Jacket, Jersey tank , Tapered shorts, Elongated bomber
Colour: Stone, Black, Yellow gold, Oyster, Flesh, Mint, Burnt orange
Materials and Trims: Leather, Canvas, Cotton, Translucent leather, Jersey
Print and Pattern: Tooled leather
Accessories and Footwear: Combat Boots, Cyclops hair pieces
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