Rick Owens

Paris: Avant-garde designer Rick Owens has made drama his trademark, but for F/W 12 he chose a less theatrical path. More sportswear than costume, Owens built the season around high-waisted trousers and slim turtlenecks, a tucked-in look that seemed fresh for the master of gothic layering. In fact, a body-consciousness played throughout the presentation, extending to boxy cropped blazers that hugged the torso and funnel neck cotton shirts which clung to the shoulders. The protective elements of motocross continued the fitted theme, expressed via tight suede jackets with contrast piping and windswept, extended collars. For Owens, all of the above proved refreshingly upbeat and pleasingly simple, for his most wearable collection in quite a while.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Slim / Fitted / Long and lean / Cropped

Color: Black / White / Dove grey / Ice blue

Key Items: Slim turtlenecks / High waist trousers / Cropped jackets / Floor length skirts / Skinny tank tops / Fitted puffer coats / Architectural cotton shirts / Long overcoats / Leather motorcross jackets

Materials: Shearling / Jersey / Wool / Cotton / Leather

Details + Trim: Zippers / Layering / Funnel necks / Snaps / Contrast piping

Accessories + Footwear: Simple leather sneakers / Fingerless gloves / Monochrome leather boots

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