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Rick Owens

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PRIMAL DUTY

Paris: With the concepts of “service, duty, and devotion,” in mind, Rick Owens designed for “a man who would go the extra mile to protect and provide for his family” this season. Looks felt serious, as they usually do with Owens, but the mood was energetic and determined rather than somber. Armor-esque outerwear was a focus; a variety of sturdy leather and wool felt styles were shown. Severe-silhouetted garments of ranging lengths were layered-up and the resulting ensembles were tough and functional. Even wrap dresses and skirts read in a masculine way, conjuring iconic ancient laborer and fighter archetypes. Though Owens’ argument for men in skirts was persuasive and nicely executed, it’s unlikely that Average Joe will be won over. The outerwear looks, however, will be an easier sell, and are sure to be influential.

Colors: Tar black / Dove and elephant grays / Bright white

Key Items: Sleeveless jacket / Knit turtleneck / Cutaway outerwear / Modern duffel coat / Wrap tunic / Minimalist kilt / Sporty zip-up

Materials: Matte and shiny leathers / Nylon / Black, white and gray denims / Fleece / Sturdy woven cottons / Silk / Wool felt

Details + Trim: Invisible closures / Shawl collars / Doubled Lapels / Toggle closures / Wrapped constructions / Contrast facings / Hoods / Funnel, cowl and turtlenecks / Zipper closures / Banded edges / Geometric cutaway hems / Metal embellishments / Asymmetry / Pieced constructions

Accessories + Footwear: Futuristic zip-up motorcycle boots / Reinforced slouchy motorcycle gloves

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