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Rick Owens

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GOTH CRAFT

Paris: There’s always something very much the same and something very different about a Rick Owens show. The designer’s goth-chic aesthetic consistently pervades his work in a confident and powerful way, but each collection still feels like a discovery. This season, Owens played with silhouette, introducing both more voluminous and slimmer shapes into his work. The show opened with padded duvet pieces cut asymmetrically, which stood away from the body in a way that looked simultaneously soft and boxy. The slimmer pieces created an hourglass silhouette that Owens had yet to explore. Ultra-supple leather jackets with his signature knit panel down the arm hugged the body, and narrow shorts – a variation on the styles he introduced for S/S 10 – were the bottom of choice. Owens used the right-angled triangle as a motif for the hosiery he paired with each look, as well as for grey-scale coats and skirts with a pinwheel pattern that looked drawn on with chalk. The triangle shape was also used for pearly pieces of shell that embellished hooded coats and dresses, creating an artisanal effect that conjured inlaid wood. Fur coats were a highlight, some double-faced and others in cutaway styles. Despite the dark mood, accentuated by the models’ severe hair and black-encircled eyes, Owens offered brilliant pieces that will appeal to loyal followers and the uninitiated alike.

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