May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Paris: American-born, Paris-based designer Rick Owens showed a humble yet romantic collection in monochrome. His models descended behind smoke clouds to a suggestive soundtrack mixed with opera, framing a sophisticated minimalist collection. The show started with floor-length sleeveless coats in white shearling, layered with black padded nylon jackets or styled with opera gloves in leather. There were gigantic hoods that opened into large shawl collars with back and front zips – both functional and stunning. The layered, cocooned and protected looks suggested clothes for an urban warrior in a cold wintry landscape. “It’s a very humble and gentle collection; I’m so grateful for being alive and to do what I love,” said Rick backstage. Some outdoor garments were decorated with rope details, almost like giant threads stitched through eyelets. “I always return to ancient Japanese art, it’s so subtle and delicate,” said the designer. Rick ended the show with a seamless fusion of ancient and futuristic; dresses and jumpsuits had deep V-necks, draped details and cascading backs. The last look sported a shawl panel that turned into a train – subtle yet dramatic. —Celia Ingesson
Silhouette: Cocoon / Long / Lean / Layered
Color: Mineral beige / Taupe / Grey / Vanilla / Black / Ivory
Key Items: Sleeveless floor-length waistcoats / Floor-length duffel-coat / Giant hooded jackets and waistcoats / Kimono-inspired jackets / Dropped-crotch shorts / Cap-sleeved shell tops / Deep V-neck train-back dresses
Materials: Silk organza / Silk satin / Silk crepe / Leather / Boiled wool / Padded nylons / Curly shearling
Print + Pattern: Giant knots and blown-up rope-like stitches
Details + Trim: Giant knots and rope-like stitches / Big hoods with metallic zips / Curly shearling fur in contrasting color / Color and fabric-blocking
Accessories + Footwear: Exaggerated high-heeled boots with contrast leather rope details
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