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Rick Owens

ANCIENT FUTURE
Paris: The graphic explorations and elevated silhouettes that have made Rick Owens a major fashion influence continue, this season with an ancient-times-meets-space-age collection. Models strode along grey concrete floors with a bubbling foam backdrop creating cosmic scenery, and silhouettes were goddess-like and almost ethereal, with soft, rounded cocoon shapes starting at the shoulder. The opening color scheme was warm in sandy beiges and nudes; then came the greys, taupes and silver metallics, followed by black lacquered silk and crocodile. “I love shades of grey; I do a million shades. I like presenting something monochromatic, it has a stronger impact,” explained Owens about his subtle palette. Stunning floor-length off-the-shoulder silk dresses, gold or silver-embellished gladiator wedges and ziggurat-shaped wigs added to the Greco-Roman feeling. Owen’s Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired elementalism of last season seems to have informed the strong architectural lines of this collection as well; several of the color-blocked, sculptural pieces suggested skyscrapers or space suits, underlining the seamless fusion of ancient and futuristic. —Celia Ingesson

Silhouette: Cocoon / Squared / Long / Slender

Color: Sandy beige / Golden beige / Taupe / “A million shades” of grey/ Metallic grey / Gold / Black / Ivory

Key Items: Cocoon-shaped sleeveless off-the-shoulder tops / Floor-length skirts with high back slit / Capes / Off-the-shoulder long dresses / Dropped crotch shorts / Cap-sleeved shell tops

Materials: Silk organza / Silk georgette / Silk Crepe / Metallic silk / Leather / Silk fringed fabric (short allover fringes) / See-through technical fabrics / Sateen / Lacquered finish

Print + Pattern: Color and fabric-blocking / Croc / Graphical detailing

Details + Trim: Big round gold fastenings / Contrasting fabrics and leather trims / Elasticated hems

Accessories + Footwear: Exaggerated Egyptian wigs / Modernized gladiator wedge sandals

View in RUNWAY: QUICK LOOK

 

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