May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Paris: Evolving his architectural inspiration of last season, for F/W 12 Rick Owens explored the blockish concrete structures of Brutalism and the organic designs of Frank Lloyd Wright. These contrasting influences made for a collection of juxtaposing forms — hard, soft, boxy and fluid. Elongated, draped silhouettes were interrupted by structured angles, and the incorporation of monochrome color-blocking lent things a graphic edge. Texture — slubbed, pilled, felted, lustrous, and plush — played an important role, adding tactile surface interest to looks made up of greyscale layers. The leather jackets for which the designer has become known were updated a variety of ways — cropped lengths, roomy sleeves, and necklines that morphed into shearling capes. Not commonly associated with Owens’ aesthetic, a feel of romance pervaded this collection. Perhaps it was the softly gathered fabric, the subtly accentuated curves of the waist, or maybe it was the pretty melon tones (first introduced in S/S 12). There were so many refreshing departures from the masculine and rigid undertones of late, from the vacillating shapes to the addition of pattern to the sultry red lips peeking out from beneath cage-like ski masks. —Anna Jane Davis
Silhouette: Long layers / Built-up shoulders
Color: Black / White / A range of greys, from Dove to Charcoal / Pale Peach
Key Items: Gathered tunic / Wool column dress / Draped maxi skirt / Leather cape-collar jacket / Floor-sweeping coat
Materials: Mohair + ribbed knits / Silk / Pilled chiffon / Wool — jersey, slubbed, lustrous, pilled, tweedy / Shearling / Leather / Fur
Print + Pattern: Jumbo Buffalo checks / Monochrome color-blocking
Details + Trim: Patchworked fur / Stand collars / Gathering + pleating / Exposed zippers
Accessories + Footwear: Caged ski masks / Fingertip-less gloves / Knee-length boots — signature covered wedge + biker versions
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