May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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A POTENT SOFTNESS
London: Richard Nicoll described his F/W 13 collection as “masculine glamour in disguise” and “louche elegance,” two perfect phrases for the lovely balancing act he conducted on the runway. Oversized menswear suiting in pale mushroom, shark grey and chambray blue draped and flowed around the body and even accompanying felted wool overcoats and chevron stripe fur tops looked weightless. Each one of these pieces was both louche and glamorous, as were gorgeous crocodile embossed silk hourglass sheaths—trim little numbers with an exquisite femininity. Strength in softness was an additional message for Fall, and Nicoll played downy waffle knit cashmere against crisp patent leather before closing on sherbet oranges and apricots enhanced by a futuristic hint of metallic sheen.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Relaxed & slouchy / Trim / Hourglass / Draped
Color: Shark grey / Chambray blue / Oyster / Black / Navy / Pale banana / Delicate mushroom / White / Coral / Bright tangerine / Apricot / Blush nude
Key Items: Menswear overcoats / Suiting jumpsuits / Patterned pencil skirts / Easy-fit intarsia knit tops / Fur shell tops / Crocodile embossed hourglass sheaths / Relaxed trousers / Waffle knit cashmere tops & dresses / Refined motorcycle jackets
Materials: Flannel / Intarsia knits / Gabardine / Silk / Satin / Patent leather / Waffle knit cashmere / Sheer chiffon
Print + Pattern: Chevron / Colorblocking / Crocodile / Splatter prints
Details + Trim: Oversized lapels / Relaxed ruffle panels / Draping / Tonal beading / Sheer sleeves / Illusion hems
Accessories + Footwear: Classic pointed pumps / Peep toe sandals with ankle straps / D’orsay flats / Translucent acetate sunglasses
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