Richard Chai

New York: Setting out to prove that uniforms can be both functional and handsome, Richard Chai continued to push a decidedly Luxe Grunge aesthetic at his F/W 12 show. Shown in conjunction with the designer’s women’s collection, Richard Chai Love, this was the first outing with a couple of new collaborations under his belt (for both heritage brand Filson and boot maker Palladium). Referencing a 70s-era Bruce Davidson photograph (from his “subway” series) of an older man sporting a thick Chesterfield coat, along with typical grey scenery of a Wintertime forest, the short but impactful assortment was gallant, cozy and utilitarian at once. The designer’s looks from his newly-formed partnership with Seattle-based Filson came to life in the form of modernized versions of the century-old brand’s classics — striped wool bombers, field jackets, a classic Filson Cruiser, and leather-trimmed duffels and rucksacks. The brand’s city-country influence reverberates for a new generation of men who seek both refinement and ruggedness.   —Michael Fisher

Silhouette: Refined + relaxed

Color: Grey / Charcoal / Ink / Oxblood / Black / Khaki

Key Items: Wool blanket bomber coats / Belted utility coats / Urbanized pea coats / Slouchy suits / Funnel neck windbreaker / Cropped canvas chinos / Drop-crotch pants

Materials: Wool flannel / Corduroy / Canvas / Leather / Velvet / Jersey

Details + Trim: Industrial snaps and grommets / High funnel necks / Pieced construction / Oversized utility pockets / Hoods

Accessories + Footwear: Filson rucksacks, duffels and utility bags (canvas + leather trim) / Rubber-soled Palladium boots

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