May 29, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
Paris…Dries Van Noten
On the first day of the Paris collections, Dries Van Noten was thinking about all the restrictions we have during such trying times. As any true artist would understand, he knows that creativity flourishes and abounds when the economy is crashing down around us. For F/W 09/10, a heavy dose of tailoring made its way into a usually free-flowing collection, but that wasn’t a bad thing. After all, Van Noten was preaching the notion of “taking risks,” and doing a show with such a sartorial quality was quite different for him. The looks, most of which showcased beautiful fabrics (a Dries trademark), seemed to have the appropriate dose of fusing past menswear influences with his usual appreciation for modernity. Oily surfaces brought out texture and dimension for a group of monochromatic exits, while a mélange of patterns for shirtings and jackets was appreciated. A belted jumpsuit in washed flannel resulted in a bit of workwear character in an otherwise sea of polished men, while still maintaining Van Noten’s intended use of tailoring.
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