Restrained Insanity

New York…Thom Browne

Due to showing a basics-driven collection at the Pitti Uomo tradeshow in Florence, Thom Browne opted out of his usual runway circus that typically makes fashion week headlines. Claiming that his F/W 09 collection was his most restrained and “pulled back” to date (yes, snowflake & ski bunny prints are considered restrained for Mr. Browne), Browne played up what he does best, elevated basics. Many of the general silhouettes, trims and accessories had a very Russian soldier feel about them, from the flared A-shaped coats to the fur-trimmed lapels and hats. Rugby stripes appeared on anything and everything, from subtle nuances on the arms of a sweater to full-on repeated patterns on some of the jacket and shorts combos. There were some very commercial pieces in his assortment, including his favorite piece, a navy topcoat with fur collar. While Browne is never one to shy away from absolutely insane show pieces, his collection has always been and continues to be all about an evolved silhouette of basics for the modern man. Once you peel away the layers of absurdity, a classic-driven aesthetic in a gentle color palette always manifests itself.


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