Reed Krakoff


New York
: As the long-time creative director of Coach, Krakoff is known for his All-American aesthetic, which he has also translated in a more minimalist light for his eponymous collection, now in its second season. His F/W 10 and resort collections were studies of restraint and a less-is-more attitude, but Krakoff seemed to shift his focus this season, now including textural prints, layered garments and striking colors. The designer called the show “luxe punk”, and a beautiful bad-girl attitude pervaded, with grungy, distressed prints appearing for tees and skinny pants and bits of leather to toughen things up. The leather was lacquered to a high shine but veiled with sheer chiffon for a dull glow. Hip-slung skirts and drop-waisted dresses introduced a fresh silhouette, long and straight and devoid of the womanly curves that were all the rage last season. Clean-lined looks, like the opening ensemble on model Stella Tennant, showed that Krakoff hasn’t abandoned his initial inspirations, and these more minimal pieces mixed well with his new direction.

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