May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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New York: Reed Krakoff’s contributions as Creative Director at Coach have carried on the legacy of the great American designer, Bonnie Cashin, who originated many of the brand’s iconic handbags in the 60s. Cashin’s use of a singular design detail (the brass twist-lock) as a Coach hallmark has been reclaimed by Krakoff for a new generation. Krakoff seemed to channel Cashin again for his sophisticated F/W 12 collection, via clean sportswear pieces and functional details like zippers, used for decorative effect. Buttons were either concealed by hidden plackets, or left off completely, allowing the edges of jackets and coats to kiss. These minimalist garments gained complexity via sheerness (chiffon panels) and shine (leather insets). The show’s central passage, a series of vermillion orange looks, supplied a burst of intensity in a palette grounded in black, white/ivory, and slate-toned greys. Although the ensembles were styled in a monochromatic way, these chic separates will tell dynamic stories when color-blocked against each other. –Sharon Graubard
Silhouette: Cylindrical / Long and lean / Stand-away / Fluid
Color: Black / White / Vermillion / Wheat / Slate / Dove
Key Items: Edge-to-edge blazer / Fur-collar coat / Sheer-sleave blouse / Fluid skirt / Flat-front trouser
Materials: Wool gabardine suiting / Tissue jersey / Silk chiffon / Goat fur / Silk georgette / Cashmere-wool coating / Haircalf / Plonge leather / Patent leather
Details + Trim: Statement zipper / Fur stand-collar / Fur-trimmed sleave / Sheer paneling / Leather paneling
Accessories + Footwear: Motorcross stiletto-boot / Oversized pochette / Croc satchel
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