May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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NAUTICAL À LA RUSSE
New York: Ralph Lauren took us on a nautical-themed journey for F/W 2013. It began with stovepipe pants, striped sweaters and cashmere cable-knit turtlenecks, all restricted to a classic combination of black and cream. Ruffles, puff sleeves, bow-ties and flared mini-skirts added femininity to tailored styles. A Russian military influence was felt throughout via Naval-inspired details — ornate piping, brocade boarders, gold embroidery and chain tassels, styled with sailor caps. Lauren then transported us to a colder climate with cashmere turtlenecks layered under military wool coats, creamy shearling jackets and Mongolian fur coats, worn over slim flare-legs or Cossack pants. A parade of exquisite velvet dresses in rich Bordeaux, Prussian blue, deep purple and loden green gained interest from clever draping and sheer chiffon inserts, and magnificent furs looked ready for any Siberian storm. Lace tunics had sparkly beading while leather jackets were boned like corsets, showing artisanal craftsmanship in every drape and pleat. At the end, jewel-toned gowns were styled with shearling capelets, feather boleros or with fur hats by Patricia Underwood — very Anna Karenina. Flawless as a work of art, the press gave Mr. Lauren a standing ovation. — Celia Ingesson
Silhouette: Draped / Lean / Nautical / Draped gala
Color: Loden green / Crimson / Bordeaux / Midnight blue / Chocolate / Forest green / Champagne / Gold / Black / Ivory
Key Items: Reversible shearling and wool coat / Leather corset jacket / Silk taffeta evening skirt / Cashmere cable knit sweater / Silk georgette pleated evening dress / Evening gowns
Materials: Leather/ Silks — crepe, georgette, tulle, taffeta or satin / Double-faced wool crepe/ Wool flannel / Shearling / Mongolian fur / Cashmere / Chantilly lace / Silk velvet / Jersey
Print + Pattern: Block stripes / Royal brocade
Details + Trim: Organza ruffles / Gold embroidery / Crystals / Bindings / Leather trim / Tassels and emblem
Accessories + Footwear: Over-the-knee boots / Strapped and tasseled boots/ High platform sandal / Saddle bags / Patchwork carpet tote with shearling trim
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