May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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British designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright — with their base planted in New York — brought out their English heritage in tonight’s show. They mashed-up British classics and New York street, with a slight Air-Force inflection expressed in items like the flight skirt, pilot bag and hooded bomber jackets. “We started with flight, aviation and Pan-Am uniforms,” said Wainwright, going on to talk about vintage stewardess uniforms, which inspired the “ultra-minis” and modish shift dresses. There was also an homage to Savile Row tailoring with Prince-of-Wales checks and lots of tweeds. Oversized blazers were styled with ultra-short minis showing off the edge of black stockings for a naughty schoolgirl look. The military references took shape in protective outerwear and jackets — Meltons, peacoats, trenchcoats and parkas. Many of them were oversized, in cool contrast to the microscopic skirts, which came in quilted suede, leather or satin, styled with loafers. Fabrics were urban with protective finishes that were rubberized or bonded, as well as lots of nylons. Outerwear was a key strength, especially a mineral green leather Turner coat. The designers also added jolts of color to a lineup that was predominantly khaki, charcoal, mineral green and black; grape, flame orange and ”the Air Force classic” royal blue provided accents. The military theme carried through to the accessories, with Rag and Bone’s practical, not precious, bag. “It’s modeled after one that the old pilots used to carry their helmets,” said the guys.—Celia Ingesson
Silhouette: Oversized / Mini / 60s
Color: Mineral green / Olive / Flame orange / Charcoal / Grape / Royal blue / Black / Ivory
Key Items: The Coco jacket in mohair or rubberized tweed / Shearling Memphis jacket/ 60s shift dresses in Prince-of-Wales / Micro-Bomber skirt/ V-neck knits with contrasting necks
Materials: Leather: bonded, quilted or plain / Tweed / Melton / Nylon / Satin / Ribbed merino knit
Print + Pattern: Glen check / Prince of Wales / Color and fabric blocking
Details + Trim: Leather contrasts / Contrasting fabrics and trims / Subtle color blocking / Heavy metallic zips and buttons / Long leather straps at zip-pull
Accessories + Footwear: Loafers / Sharp pumps with ankle straps / Pilot-inspired bags and clutches / Boots
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