Nov 01, 2017 | By Nick Paget
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Paris: Hoodies- the contemporary stereotype of contentious youth – yet styled in Granddad’s Madras check, the overall aesthetic is rather different. Raf Simons has always enjoyed a visual play, this time blending the past, present and future in his conceptual mixing pot, creating a brotherhood of Granddad’s, with a touch of urban innocence. And so these shrouded models (some teetering off the catwalk altogether due to shroud related visual impairment) bore form fitting cropped tops, some moth-eaten- some patched up in plaids in a make-do-and-mend manner. Floor skimming bell-bottoms felt contemporary, yet came in a cascade of heavy Melton Wool. Tailoring told tales of times past, juxtapositioned with modern touches – zippers and boy shorts. More conventional options were offered in outerwear; duster coats came with naive hand-drawn lines in check – childish and artsy – whilst other others were embellished with metal grommets in diamond and chevron patterns lending a harder edge to the collection, a more contemporary feel. Melancholic and mysterious, everything a Raf Simon’s show should be. – Anna Ross
Theme: An outing with Grandad
Key Items: Studded overcoat, Zip-up jacket, Cropped knit tank, Oversize trousers, Duster coat, Roomy short.
Colour: Damp Brown, Red wine, Navy, Dusty brown, Off khaki, Egg yolke
Materials and Trims: Melton wool, Cashmere, Cotton, Tweed, Wax cotton, Silk
Print and Pattern: Madras check, Hand-drawn checks
Accessories and Footwear: Check shrouds, Chain shoppers, Plimsoles
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