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Raf Simons

OH MAN
Paris: Raf Simons delivered a visually striking, if curious collection that appeared to investigate issues of masculinity. Shoulders, a man’s most defining feature, were highlighted by fabric bands that extended from shoulder to shoulder on suit jackets, evoking the lines of an artist’s rough figure drawing sketch. Butterfly collars and flouncy cuffs were 70s nerd, as were sweater vests boasting a repeating “Puss in Boots” motif. Other sweaters bore equally curious marks, with human profiles outlined by question marks and male commuters appearing to ogle a passing woman. Were these references to deception, seduction, and meaning? Only Simons can say, but either way, his latest offering continued his tradition of producing beautiful clothing that asks as many questions as it answers. —Andrew Luecke

Silhouette: Slouch Sloth

Color: Midnight blue / Sky blue / Emerald / Cardinal / Camel / Rose petal / Canary / Ice blue / Jet black / Rust / Mustard

Key Items: Hidden button neoprene overcoat / Double breasted suits / Butterfly collar dress shirt / Satin trousers / Knit turtleneck / Flat-front chinos

Materials: Wool suiting / Silk satin / Neoprene / Wool knits / Rough tweed

Print + Pattern: “Puss in Boots” intarsia / “Human head-question” mark intarsia and embroideries / Stripes / “Commuter Catcall” intarsia / Houndstooth

Details + Trim: “R” monograms / Butterfly collars / Abstract “shoulder bands” / Extended cuffs

Accessories + Footwear: Buckle-free belts / Iridescent leather boots / Luxe trainers / Cravats

View in RUNWAY: QUICK LOOK

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