May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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New York: John le Carré’s 60s spy novel Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy was a touchstone for Rachel Comey this season. The notion was most evident in the incognito styling elements including dark, cropped wigs on every model and oversized sunglasses in collaboration with Prism London. The idea of taking on multiple identities resulted in a host of characters and silhouettes: Prim and feminine, slouchy and boyish and glamorous femme fatales in body-conscious, subtly sexy dresses — all with a slightly 60s undercurrent. Many looks came layered with blouses and turtlenecks beneath jumpsuits and boxy tops. Comey played with a variety of original prints (from cyber Chinoiserie to classic checks) and a palette of black, neutral beiges and taupe was punctuated with Jaffa orange, burgundy, poppy red, a golden ocelot print brocade and pale denim chambray, forgoing a cohesive statement for a smorgasbord of styles. — Natalie Shukur
Silhouette: Boyish / Fit-and-Flare / Blouson / Pegged
Color: Black / Shades of beige—biscuit to taupe / Gray / White / Burgundy / Jaffa orange / Poppy red / Gold / Metallic blue
Key Items: Slouchy pleated pants / Sport jackets / Car coats / Calf-length dresses and skirts / Leather separates / Peplum tops / Folded skirts and pants / Bomber jackets / Car coats / Tea dresses / Pegged pants / Calf-length pencil or A-line skirts / Blanket coats / Turtlenecks
Materials: Floral lace / Silks / Embossed silks / Silk brocade / Crepe / Leather/ Mock-Croc leather / Wool and wool felt / Denim / Light knits / Shearling
Print & Pattern: Golden ocelot / Metallic blue cheetah / 60s-style daisy prints / Houndstooth / Hand-drawn, abstract stars / Digital oriental and galactic floral prints / Horizontal stripes / Gingham
Details & Trim: Elasticized hems on tops and pants / Pleats and Folds / Twists and shirring / Inverted collars / Zippers / Shearling trim
Footwear & Accessories: Penny loafers / Ankle boots and oxfords with wooden clog soles / Knee-high boots / Block heel pumps with T-Bar, ankle strap and metal rings / Skinny belts / Leather box bags / Shoulder bags / Gradient lens black, white or tortoiseshell frame sunglasses in collaboration with Prism London / Watches by Citizen / Leather gloves by Sermonetta
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