Pulling Rank

New York…Helmut Lang

Breaking away from the mostly straight-forward tailoring and preppy aesthetic of many New York collections, designers Michael and Nicole Colovos went the opposite way, giving us a very European-meets-LA way of dressing. Gauzy jersey knits hung provocatively on the body, layered over multiple other knits. All of the pants were either jersey tights or skinny, cuffed twill cottons. One key-hole collar sweater was elongated to the point of looking unnaturally stretched, but it worked with the cropped silhouettes on the bottom. Michael explained that instead of letting the season direct them to a specific inspiration, they decided to be dictated by “seasonless dressing,” meaning colder temperatures should simply call for more layers, not an entire change in aesthetic or fabrics. The “beat to hell” leather jacket with knit collar was an editor favorite, having the look of a key wardrobe piece. We’ll never get “old Helmut” back again, but this was a good effort at re-living the best parts of the past.


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