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Proenza Schouler

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PUNCHY LADY

New York: Proenza Schouler’s collections have been instrumental in driving the market for some time and the company enjoys a coveted place as one of the most influential labels in New York; for the past two seasons alone, their takes on scuba chic and schoolgirl rebellion have inspired legions of imitators. For S/S 11 Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez cleaned up their act while incorporating a number of their recent techniques and color schemes. Ladylike silhouettes and demure hemlines ruled their runway, with boxy jackets and calf-length shift dresses bringing modesty back. But although these looks were more grown up, they still qualified as experimental, enlivened by bohemian hand-dyed silk, crocodile embossing, distressed mesh, artfully layered sheer elements and bold pop colors. Camisole tops, hook-and-eye closures and touches of lace infused some ensembles with a boudoir reference that managed to feel both fresh and translatable. Other than a few bold bib necklaces, accessories seemed less of a focus for McCollough and Hernandez this time around – slim pumps and small bags took a backseat to all the punched-up, ladies-who-lunch apparel.

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