May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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New York: Like a number of designers this week, Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez used F/W 13 as an opportunity to clear the air, leaving behind the colorful and textural explosion of their internet-inspired Spring collection for a true minimalist palette cleanser. These were clothes for a modern Hitchcock heroine, devoid of overwrought embellishments or flashy colors, relying on the sharp lines of round shoulder jackets without lapels or fastenings to make a statement instead. In addition to this pared-down outerwear design repeated throughout the presentation, McCullough and Hernandez turned out mod shift dresses paired with turtlenecks, low slung a-line skirts with wide leather self-belts and casual tapered leather trousers both solid and two-tone. Restrained texture such as tiny tweed repeats, chain link embroidery and knife cut perforations added dimension as did a gorgeous ombré dip on crewneck knit tops. These must-haves proved the most casual pieces in the collection, soft and smartly styled with the most ornate—a fluffy ostrich mini worthy of any big-screen mystery scene.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Rounded shoulders / Halter / A-line / Tapered / Asymmetric
Color: Ivory / Pale mint / Black / Peach / White / Soft grey / Deep charcoal / Buttery nudes / Ice blue
Key Items: Bouclé shifts / Ladylike modern Hitchcock suiting / Cutaway jackets and coats with round shoulders / Pencil skirts / Sheath dresses / Collarless evening coats / Turtlenecks / Tapered leather trousers / Asymmetric tunic tops / Chain link embroidered dresses and tops
Materials: Ostrich / Bouclé / Leather / Shaved furs / Tweed / Wool / Compact knits
Print + Pattern: Colorblocking / Ombré / Tweed checks / Chain link motif
Details + Trim: Subtle peplums / Perforation / Round tonal buttons / Wide self belts / Chain link embroidery / Woven leather strips / Cutouts / Contrast collars / Padded roll necks
Accessories + Footwear: Oversized patterned clutches / D’orsay kitten heels with and without bows / Demure leather gloves / Leather belts both wide and slim / Lacey cutout D’orsay heels
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