May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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A MASTERFUL HAND
New York: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler have become hot property on the international fashion scene; rumor has it that the duo are currently in talks over joining the LVMH stable. If the designers felt the pressure of presenting a collection that may determine whether or not they are offered a multi-million dollar Paris deal, they certainly did not show it. S/S 2012 was a cerebral mix of high-concept references and masterful workmanship. The setting of the show resembled a 1970s suburban lounge, complete with shag carpet and neon lighting, but the opening looks — a series of button-up jackets, cropped shorts and A-line skirts — skewed towards the 1940s. Things kicked up a gear as the show progressed into black and yellow striped eel-skin skirts and dresses that exemplified the downtown cool customers expect from Proenza Schouler. A woven raffia skirt composed in a palette of 1970s black, mustard and yellow elicited smiles from an already enthusiastic front row. The duo hit upon the two of the key trends emerging after a week of New York shows — Hawaiian prints and muted neon colors (a sleeveless yellow dress worn by Karolina Kurkova was one of the most sophisticated takes on color and print that we have seen so far this season). The closing looks consisted of ruched and gathered tops and skirts that reinforced the prevailing 1940s influence. As always, the styling was impactful yet reserved. It will be interesting to see what unfolds for these two young designers over the coming months.– Shine Anthony-Dharan
Silhouette: Hourglass / A-line
Color: Navy / Black / Mustard / Mud / Lime / Orange / Turquoise
Key Items: Button-up blazers / Shorts / A-line skirts / Halter-tops / Cigarette pants
Materials: Cotton / Knits / Linen / Raffia / Leather / Eel skin
Prints + Patterns: Painterly stripes / Graphic color-blocking / Scallop prints / Leaf prints / Hawaiian prints
Details + Trim: Contrast buttons / Drawstrings / Corset detailing / High slits
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