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Pringle of Scotland

LOOSELY KNIT
London
: With a new creative director at its helm, Pringle of Scotland had one of the the most anticipated shows of the week in London. Although the man in question, Alistair Carr, rates high on the “cool” scale with previous stints at Balenciaga and Chloé, he doesn’t exactly bring a wealth of knit knowledge to the storied house. In this instance, Carr’s inexperience worked in his favor, as he explored the possibilities of sweaters and jerseys with all the enthusiasm of an untrained schoolboy. The twinset was a major centerpiece, dissected into offbeat proportions and even a duo of nylon jackets. Carr cleverly fulfilled Pringle’s knit quota by printing cable plaits and stockinette chevrons on woven fabrics, making it hard to distinguish which was which. Straight, androgynous silhouettes; stark, utilitarian surfaces; and wrapped-and-belted pieces had all the markings of Nicolas Ghesquière’s influence yet somehow winked at the label’s Scottish heritage in an understated way. It all made for a collection that uprooted the established house and pushed it in a futuristic new direction – one quite fitting for the brand ambassador Tilda Swinton. – Nivara Xaykao

Silhouette: Straight / Dropped waist

Color: Seafoam / Indigo / Rust / Navy / Highlighter yellow

Key Items: Twinset / Parachute pants / Deconstructed lab coat / Draped shift dress

Print + Pattern: Cable plaits / Variegated chevron stripes / Diamond grid / Color blocking

Materials: Cotton to cashmere knits / Silk jersey / Charmeuse / Satin suiting / Techno nylons / Foamy pointelle

Details + Trim: Contrast linings / Caviar beading / Leather harness straps / Slits and vents / Silver snap buttons

Accessories + Footwear: Stained glass spectacles by Husam el Odeh / Industrial metal belt / Brushed metal cuffs / Color-blocked pumps

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