11 hours ago | By Lizzy Bowring
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FORM AND FRILLS
London: One could tell that it was going to be a different collection for Pringle from the very first look – a stark black and white minimalist number with a reverse leather apron belted to the waist. From there, designer Clare Waight Keller sent out a procession of similarly pared-down looks with nary a knit in sight; however, a closer inspection revealed strands of the label’s DNA subtly woven throughout. The iconic kilt was a recurring design motif, appearing as a sheer outer layer, transformed into wrap A-line skirts and as peplum-like extensions from jackets and pencil skirts. Although knits, in the conventional sense, were few and far between, they were represented by a process similar to lace-making, in which ribbons and threads were woven through a net backing to resemble cable-knit patterns and fringe – an instant solution for summer-appropriate sweaters. On a conceptual level, Keller wanted to explore the tug-of-war between frivolity and pragmatism in the female psyche by juxtaposing sleek, structured forms with frilly, flashy details. The battle resulted in tailored cotton shorts worn over gingham boxers, sheer A-line skirts layered over their more modest counterparts, and stiff button-ups and trousers worn with ladylike jackets. At times practicality itself was sacrificed for the idea, but it is this kind of ingenuity, that Keller has brought to the house, that is moving the company forward.
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