Premium + Seek F/W 12: Denim Highlights

Along with the extensive coverage at Bread and Butter last week, the Denim team also looked to two of Berlin’s other directional trade shows, Premium and Seek.

This season, Premium proved once again that the concept of curating collections anew each season and presenting them in a unique mix is not just a pioneering idea, but indeed the right one. The show reported an absolute record for the season with 25% new brands offering fresh, up-to-date and relevant international portfolios. The organizers of the event tightly ciphered out the show’s roundup in order to put a crisp line in between the premium and mass segments. Established denim brands including Twenty8Twelve, Paige and Joe’s Jeans sat among rising stars M2F, Mother and Victoria Beckham Jeans.

Oliver Saunders’ SEEK remained a “must see” this time around with its carefully edited selection of young and progressive labels. This season the show occupied the Kühlhaus – its own industrial, raw, former storage space in immediate proximity of the station and Premium. Denim exhibitors such as Surface to Air, Denim Demon, Indigofera,  Our Legacy and Velour presented their collections at the industrial but charming two-story, 1,000 sqm location. The location also played host to the culinary specialties by the team from the michelberger hotel.

Premium is renowned for its heavy presence of progressive womenswear denim lines and this season was no different. Highlights from the Women’s segments included a return to embellishment with brands Avelon and Armani Jeans focusing on localized adornment to give jeans a glam-rock edge. Current Elliott and Paige continued to expand upon their camo-laundry looks, while Italian brand Robert Graham gave its pants an unexpected pop with space-dye yarns. Once again, London’s, Superfine delivered a number of directive silhouettes, including asymmetric closures and stab-stitch panelling on its skinny fits.

The simple formula of SEEK centers on an unpretentious portfolio of brands that educate and showcase what is relevant in contemporary menswear. This season proved very exciting for this area, with returning brands Denim Demon and Indigofera continuing to craft innovative denim pieces through their passion of culture and heritage. New themes included reworked fleece linings (note the nod to the Swedish flag), Sami-inspired stitchwork and a focus on rustic and irregular surfaces. Naval references emerged through a number of designers with reworked sailor pants and updated shawl collar jackets.

Look out for the full report on the Stylesight Denim page next week.

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