May 26, 2017 | By Samuel Trotman
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F/W 13 marked the 10th anniversary edition of Premium, with organizers presenting its largest portfolio to date — 900 brands across womenswear, menswear, denim, and sportswear. Hosted once again at its birth place, Station-Berlin, the three-day show showcased a diligent curation of high fashion brands, both new and seasonal regulars, to capture the latest influences and trends across the retail industry.
Known for its finely-tuned selection of premium denim brands, including the likes of Twenty8Twelve, Hudson, and Current Elliott, the show remains a must-see for Stylesight every season. For F/W 13, digital prints stood out as one of the key directions for womenswear. J Brand and 7 For All Mankind pushed the printed trend forward with vivacious photoreal patterns, while other brands like Joe’s Jeans and Superfine looked to hybrid mixes of laundry and print to update their collections. For menswear, Diesel Black Gold presented its premium runway line that included ombré resin treatments as well as leather pieced shirts with intricate laser-cut pattern. L.A.-based Koral (from the former founder of 7 For All Mankind) debuted its first full collection of crafted denims for Women and Men. Owners and founders, Peter and David Koral were on-hand to showcase the return to form for L.A. premium denim.
As Berlin’s most progressive trade show, SEEK‘s unpretentious selection of contemporary brands consistently provides a complementary buying experience to neighboring Premium. Each season, SEEK founder and managing director of Our Legacy, Oliver Saunders brings together an acute portfolio of directional brands alongside an inspired and relaxed setting that presents an atmosphere that’s equally enticing to exhibitors and to retailers.
With a strong menswear focus, SEEK presented a more authentic approach to denim. One of the most highly anticipated denim brands to show this season was The One Goods. Brainchild of Big-E founder Mark Westmoreland and brothers Robin and Montgomery Juchems, The One Goods arrives with a tightly edited selection of denim classics produced from “the best possible components.” A limited-edition line, One is complemented by the more commercial range with both offering understated detailing and fine Japanese fabrics. London’s Natural Selection showcased its uncluttered and subtle British aesthetic with contemporary fits, finishes, and premium selvedge fabrics. Their foam wash jeans and jackets (pictured above) were a particular highlight, demonstrating the brands careful and considered approach to design. Our Legacy took to unexpected approach to classic denim silhouettes, exploring moleskin fabrications on type-ii truckers and five-pocket styles.
The final report of Premium and SEEK’s denim highlights will be live on the denim page tomorrow; subscribers keep your eyes peeled.
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