Miuccia Prada showed a deceptively complex collection, which on first glimpse appeared simple and featureless, but upon repeated viewing begged a particularly prescient question under a panoply of unexpected color play. In many ways, this S/S 13 collection may be taken as the shadow counterpart to Prada’s S/S 12 collection. In that showing, 50s-style golf and bowling looks were drenched in outrageously campy patterns and color combos that critiqued themes of clubby masculinity and exclusion; this time, a similar array of items — sportswear, activewear, suits, and fur jackets — were sleek and androgynous (a theme highlighted by the inclusion of female models in this “Men’s” show), and seemed to speak to a near future where gender, age, and occupation will be streamlined to minimize differences. However, audacious color combinations (maroon, royal blue, racing red, black and white), questioned this apparent utopian homogeneity, and ultimately undermined it — reminding viewers of the irrepressible joy of mutation and variation. —Andrew Luecke

Silhouette: Relaxed Mod

Color: Maroon / Stone / Navy / Kelly green / Royal blue / Granite / Goldenrod / Sky blue / Racing red / Putty / White / Black

Key Items: Bowling shirts and sport pop-overs / Single breasted trench coats  / Caramel fur coat / Color-blocked concealed button popovers / Sport suits / Ringer tees and tanks

Materials: Cotton poplin / Fur / Tropical weight wool / Terrycloth

Print + Pattern: Color blocking

Details + Trim: Ringer collars / Placket trim / Contrast collars / Sleeve or leg panels

Accessories + Footwear: Unisex shower sandals / Retro-futurist point loafers / Tennis headbands / Bowling bags / Oversized aviator shades


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