Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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Milan: Miuccia Prada delivered a Fall collection like no other. In the show notes, Prada summarised her collection:
“The nature of women is complex and ineffable . . . Like a Russian doll placed inside one another.”
And that’s how it was – the layers of clothing, peeled away, revealed exquisite details on individually styled silhouettes. A 40s/50s spirit reinforced by sailor hats, belted waists of full skirts and dresses, also evoked the era directly after World War II , where women were left to “keep the home fires burning”. Emulating these strong women, illustrations were created by Berlin artist Christophe Chemin that appeared on shirts and dresses depicting a cycle of prints based on the French Revolutionary reordering of the calendar. Miuccia Prada spoke about the ‘vagabond’ which turned up in her collection as a Global traveller; collecting references and loved pieces on her travels, from impeccable tailoring with military details, well-travelled jackets and on to dresses and skirts, juxtaposed with gold brocades and damasks and fastened by extraneous corsets and belts. A collection that will be every bit as memorable as was this very futuristic message. – Lizzy Bowring
Trends: World Traveller, Strong women
Colour: Black, Military green, Red, Deep amber
Key Items: Corseted blazer, Half corset, Full skirts and dresses, Printed shirts, Greatcoats, Full length cloak, ‘Well-travelled’ leather coat, Pieced zipped cardigan, Slim dresses with sleeve details, Oversized fur trimmed blazer, Quilted jackets, Pleated skirts
Trims and Materials: Gold brocades, Velvet, Silk, Fur, Denim, Silk Cloque, Velvet, Menswear materials, Leopard skin, Embroidered organza
Print and Pattern: Bold florals, Graphic mythical creature, Illustrations created by Berlin artist Christophe Chemin
Footwear and accessories: Sailor hats, Diamond pattern tights, Argyle tights, Leather belts, Heavy charm chokers, Lace up wedge boots, Buckle pumps, Lug-soled boots, Leather bound notebooks studded with gold stars an moons, Ankle strap wedges
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