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Prada F/W 12: A Brash mix of David Hicks & 70s Sartorial Hedonism

Miuccia Prada may have sidestepped the typical, often superfluous Collection Concept this season, claiming fashion fatigue (‘…I’m sick of theory’), but strong references surfaced nonetheless, with her hard-edged, graphic F/W 12 collection evoking at turns the bold interiors of David Hicks, the cult high street label of a bygone era, Biba, and the sharp tailoring of the late 60s and 70s.  Vibrant, saturated shades of orange and purple were tempered with graphic black and white in matching trouser suits or clashing print-on-print looks, evoking the punchy panache of a David Hicks patterned carpet circa 1972. Elaborate costume gems seemed borrowed from the over-the-top beaded cocktail looks of the 60s, grafted onto masculine tailoring in an ingenius appropriation that read as signature Prada.  Sickly sweet pops of ‘pure pleasure,’ as Miuccia claimed, on a seemingly incongruous base.  Below, a montage of our favorite looks alongside period inspiration.


Clockwise, L to R: Prada F/W 12; Vogue Italia February 1969; Penelope Tree in Vogue Italia, August 1969; David Hicks interior circa 1970s


Clockwise, L to R: Prada F/W 12; master bedroom at Roquebrune, David Hicks’ country house in the south of France, circa 1960s; Vogue Italia September 1970; Hexagon pattern by David Hicks; Chinese Fret Che fabric pattern by David Hicks, 1972


Clockwise, L to R: Prada F/W 12; David Hicks interior circa 1970s; trouser suit by Mila Schon, Vogue Italia, September 1970; Pamela Hicks’ (wife) room at Britwell House, David Hicks’ home in Oxfordshire, circa 1960s-70s


Clockwise, L to R: Prada F/W 12; Hexagon fabric by David Hicks, 1972; David Hicks interior circa 1970s; David Hicks interior circa 1970s


Clockwise, L to R: Prada F/W 12; Biba trouser suits circa late 60s-early 1970s; Biba Mail Order catalogue circa early 1970s

Clockwise, L to R: Prada F/W 12; Twiggy in Vogue US, 15th April 1968; Suit by Pierre Cardin, circa 1960s


Clockwise, L to R: Prada F/W 12; Penelope Tree in Vogue Italia, February 1969; Vogue Italia February 1969

Clockwise, L to R: Prada F/W 12; sketch by David Hicks; Vogue UK, 1st October 1975

 

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