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Prada

MINISTRY OF POWER
Milan: Talk about a show! Miuccia Prada’s F/W 12 collection was dedicated to the “parody of power,” and how men use fashion to telegraph authority, might or supremacy. “Clothing is also a tool of power and a way to express male vanity,” the designer said before the show. On a catwalk made to mimic a grand palace, complete with a 2500-square-foot Art Deco carpet and giant chandeliers, award-winning actors like Gary Oldman, Adrien Brody, Willem Dafoe, and Jamie Bell joined models wearing strict overcoats and dense layers. The authoritative note of the inspiration spurred all sorts of rich yet rigorous designs: double-breasted suits embellished with military regalia, high-collared shirts, astrakhan-collar coats, jacquard pajama robe-coats, pinstripe jackets with boutonnière-decorated lapels, and upper-crust evening wear. While the Edwardian influence was palpable, the concept of parody kept it all contemporary. Formal clothes were cut from denim and what appeared from afar as mohair was actually cotton; seemingly baroque motifs on shirts were, upon closer inspection, depictions of American football helmets or feathered Native American headdresses. Tailored topcoats in sumptuous jacquards resembled silk dressing gowns, and white-tie neckwear turned out to be mock-turtle knits. No matter what influential character was being played – prince, CEO or dandy — Prada defined and re-defined the essence of a well-dressed man. —Michael Fisher

Color: Cardinal red / Black / Grey / Purple / Brown / Caramel / Taupe

Key Items: Self-belt overcoat / Jacquard patterned robes / Turtleneck knits / Crisp high-collar shirts / Three-piece suits / Double-breasted jackets / Fur-trimmed outerwear / Reverse pleat trousers

Materials: Cotton poplin and moleskin / Denim / Jacquard / Wool barathea / Mohair/ Astrakhan

Details + Trim: Embroidery / Baroque-inspired motifs / Oversized point collars / Asymmetric closures / Self-belts / Fur-trimmed collars and lapels / Self-fabric buttons

Accessories + Footwear: Red round sunglasses / Modified square-toe Oxfords / Silk boutonnières / Cotton pocket squares

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