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Prada

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GLOBAL UNIFORMITY

Milan:  Miuccia Prada is never one to shy away from progressive ideas in menswear. A double-layer runway made from metal grates and concrete beams — much like a parking deck — helped focus all eyes on models displaying such advanced notions as the return of the three-button jacket and the use of hospital scrubs as fashion. “Uniforms from around the world” was the theme, and Prada convincingly made the garb of the working man, whether a Wall Street banker or a registered nurse, into desirable fashion. The designer explained to the press that she wanted to keep everything as simple as possible in terms of fabric, construction and silhouette, and so she used cotton, the hardest-working, most durable material in the world. That led to the idea of work clothes, with several being made from denim. Denim was used for scrub-style tops that were worn over a shirt and tie of the same fabric, and was also cut into some of those lean three-button jackets. Other uniforms that got the chic treatment included postman looks (baggy shorts and waist satchels) and sailors (boatnecked striped sweaters). Wingtips took on weight this season with super thick soles made from fusing diverse materials together: serrated rubber, espadrille trims and sneaker mid-soles were sandwiched to become one. The cheery bright palette combined with utilitarian details and impeccable tailoring will surely influence the entire world of menswear for seasons ahead.

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