May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Milan: How is it that every few seasons, a Prada collection will come along and turn everything one thought about elegance on its head? When faced with the genius of one of Miuccia Prada’s fully-realized ideas, all other things seem to fall away. That was the case with the designer’s current fall collection. She achieved the near-impossible, putting out tailored skirt suits that were desirable, exciting, and not the least bit prudish. Her coats were another example of Prada’s ability to make the mundane appealing. Featuring a simple full-skirted silhouette, they were carefully gathered near the cuffs, making them instantly fresh. The aforementioned full-skirted shape, coupled with the inclusion of a range of gingham patterns, suggested a touch of 1950s rockabilly rebelliousness. Sensuality is always a key component of a Prada collection, and this season the designer created that allure by tugging dresses and sweaters off of shoulders, exposing more skin and suggesting a recent romp. The sexy wet locks and kissed-off makeup also contributed to the show’s seductive mood, completing Prada’s vision of what she called “raw elegance.” –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Asymmetrical / Fit-and-flare / A-line / Hourglass
Color: Black / Charcoal / Heather grey / Sky blue / Muddy browns / Goldenrod / Red / Turquoise / Teal / Peach / Kelly green / Mustard / Pastel pink / Gold / Silver
Key Items: Skirt suits / Full-skirted coats / Off-the-shoulder dresses / Henley sweaters
Materials: Firm felted wool / Medium-gauge cashmere yarns / Wool twill / Marled tweeds / Chiffon / Plush furs / Slick leather / Croc skin / Fluid silks
Print + Pattern: Gingham / Wide stripes
Details + Trim: Paillettes / Beading / Gathered cuffs / Patch pockets / Henley necklines / Portrait necklines / Asymmetrical hemlines / Zippers / Shirt collars / Single-breasted closures / Fur cuffs
Accessories + Footwear: Aviator sunglasses / Semicircle-shaped bags, pouches, and clutches / Medium-width and skinny leather belts / Platform strappy sandals / Platform ankle boots with straps / Platform creepers
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