Milan: With severe, flat-ironed hair, heavily kohl-rimmed eyes and wallpaper pattern suiting, Miuccia Prada’s latest inspiration arrived directly from the 70s as clearly as her Spring muse inhabited the hot-rod 50s. A multitude of classic geometric prints executed in shades of mustard and pumpkin worked best when accentuated with scattered tonal beading or layered with contrasting motifs. Thick fitted suiting, sleeveless coats and long vests formed the foundation of the collection, and created a fresh high-low silhouette when buttoned just under the bust. Crop tops with tails also drew the eye upward, but remained demure paired with mid-calf wrap skirts and matching cropped trousers. Cutaway vests and jackets, many of which could double as dresses, achieved a sense of movement despite heavy fabrics and embellishment. Proving the innovative versatility of her new direction, Prada closed the presentation with glamorous Persian lamb, a sudden shift which took her belted suits and elongated tanks straight into evening. —Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Boxy / Long / Straight / Fitted / Layered / Cropped

Color: Black / Tan / Mustard / Pumpkin / Lavender / Olive / Chocolate / Pumice / Tangerine / Cobalt / White / Avocado

Key Items: Embellished jackets / Sleeveless overcoats / Slim wool trousers / Double-breasted pantsuits / Patterned turtlenecks / Cropped vests / Tail jackets / Mid-calf wrap skirts / Beaded collar blouses

Materials: Cashmere / Wool / Twill / Persian lamb / Satin / Silk / Cotton

Print + Pattern: Geometric repeats

Details + Trim: Oversize beaded embroidery / Self-belts / Tails / Jeweled cuffs / Embellished collars / Spherical buttons

Accessories + Footwear: Cris-cross platform heels / Frame bags / Round sunglasses / Platform mary-janes / Enamel buckle belts / Chunky platform loafers / Patterned satchel bags / Wide leather belts


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