Sep 21, 2018 | By Alice Gividen
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New York: Inspired by Nobuyoshi Araki’s Sensual Flowers series, designer Prabal Gurung based his S/S 2012 collection around an engineered print of withering blooms. Evoking a space-age garden, the complex motif, featured on almost every item, from frothy fit-and-flare dresses to slim suits, made for a futuristic fairy tale experience. To break up the pattern-heavy effect, the designer employed graphic contrast piecing and trim, as well as sheer paneling and strategically placed cutouts. Sleek, tailored separates—skinny suits, silky shorts and precisely-cut tuxedo jackets—punctuated the dress-centric collection in a palette of electric purple, seafoam and graphic black and white. Fabrics were a nod to the fetishistic nature of Araki’s work; Gurung fashioned a a skirt and coat in airbrushed latex, backed an intricate laser-cut leather with athletic mesh and smothered a translucent dress and pants with dripping metallic paint. Harnesses in leather or silk rope were yet another reference to the Japanese photographer and his rope-bound muses. —Anna Jane Davis
Silhouette: Fit-and-flare / Slim and tailored
Color: White / Black / Violet / Electric Purple / Fuchsia / Seafoam
Key Items: Fit-and-flare dress / Slim, printed suit / Classic white T-shirt / Silky shorts / Structured woven tee / Latex coatdress
Materials: Silk georgette / Latex / Lace / Tulle / Mesh / Laser-cut leather / Marabou / Summer wool suiting
Print + Pattern: Engineered floral print / Hand-painted streaks / Degradé airbrushing / Dripping metallic coating
Details + Trim: Sheer panelling / Marabou feathers / Cutouts + piecing / Contrast piping + banding / Lace-up details / Rubber paillettes, Handkerchief hems
Accessories + Footwear: Strappy platforms with mesh and tubing / Futuristic cat eye sunglasses / Harnesses in black leather or silk rope
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