Sep 21, 2018 | By Alice Gividen
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COCKTAIL HOUR TAILORING
New York: By opening on a series of darkly modern looks reminiscent of Riccardo Tisci’s work at Givenchy, Prabal Gurung made it clear he is moving in a fresh direction for S/S 13. The inspiration stated by the designer, sculptor Anish Kapoor’s interactive and challenging installations, also indicated a more experimental process this season, one which resulted in a gorgeous new take on cocktail dressing. Playing sheer against shiny and sporty against dressy, Gurung’s tapered onyx tailoring was softened by layers of chiffon, while luxe crocodile shorts paired with molded sweatshirts. Gauzy capes and tails ran throughout the presentation, and prints were predictably florid, but it was a deconstructed metallic brocade shown as monochrome suiting which truly pushed the envelope of creative eveningwear. —Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Slim / Tailored / Boxy / Tapered / Asymmetric
Color: White / Black / Poppy red / Silver / Ice blue / Oxblood
Key Items: Sharp motorcycle jackets / Tapered satin trousers / Sleeveless blazers / Sheer tunics / Transparent cape tops / Sporty cropped shorts / Layered cocktail dresses
Materials: Chiffon / Lace / Silk georgette / Crocodile / Patent leather / Distressed brocade
Print + Pattern: Abstract feather prints / Photo print florals / Bone graphics
Details + Trim: Feathers / Cape backs / Tails / Sequins / Contrast waistbands / Ruffles / Sheer panels / Contrast piping / Asymmetry
Accessories + Footwear: Wrapped-strap sandals / Industrial aviators
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